Fishing - Fishing Tips and Techniques
Equipment: There is no such thing as the all purpose rod and
reel. When you are buying a rod and reel is all about choices. Whether
you have $25.00 or $250.00 to spend get one that’s best suited
for the job you wish it to do.
With walleye feeling the fish is important. Jigging demands more "feel"
than most other techniques for catching walleye. A jigging rod should
be 6 foot long maximum, super sensitive with a forgiving tip section
and with a strong backbone. A shorter rod allows you to have better
control of the jig's action when fishing vertically over the side of
the boat. The strong backbone lets you get good hook sets and the forgiving
tip section acts as a shock absorber when fighting fish.
rods too demand more "feel" than most rods. The primary difference
in a rigging rod vs. a jigging rod, is that the rigging rod will generally
be longer (6'6") with a softer over all action. This is important
because although you want to feel the fish as he takes the bait, you
don't want the fish to detect you at the other end of the line. Since
most live bait rigging is done in deeper water and with more line out
than in jigging or still fishing presentations, the extra rod length
to pick up line slack and drive hooks home.
Reels - A good quality, smooth operating spinning reel is imperative
for any kind of fishing; but when jigging for walleyes the addition
of instant anti-reverse and one-way clutch bearings, for solid hook-ups,
are nice features to have.
Reels - When walleye are actively cruising for baitfish, sometimes casting
crankbaits is the best option. If a lot of this type of fishing is going
to be done, a dedicated casting reel equipped with a decent anti-backlash
feature is in order.
The moral of the story is that no one presentation works the same from
day to day. To capitalize on the changing moods of walleye have both
a decent spinning and casting setup at your disposal.
Standard Walleye Presentations:
fishing situations can change from hour to hour and from day to day
it’s good to have a few different approaches ready to employ.
These approaches should include both an active presentation and a passive
presentation. The active presentation helps you effectively cover a
lot of water quickly and catch active fish. The passive presentation
is a slower and more deliberate presentation effective at tempting and
catching inactive fish. The most common error with walleye is to fish
too fast. Whatever lure you are using, slow down your retrieve - you’ll
see the results. If the fish still aren’t hitting, slow down some
you are using a jig, or trolling with a minnow like lure, get it down
on the bottom! Walleye feed at about the 18-24 inch level. They hit
soft, so do not rush the hook set. Wait till you feel a good tug or
The Spinner Rig – This presentation is all active. A spinner rig
is a series of beads and blades that creates flash and calls fish in.
Usually tipped with dew worms or frozen minnows – this rig is
attached to a bottom walker and trolled along bottom. With this presentation
the bottom walker rides along bottom while the spinner tags along behind
it spinning away few inches above bottom. After the rig is out and trolling,
cover water until you start catching fish.
The Jig and Minnow – This is the standard for most every walleye
fisherman.. Tip a minnow to the end of the jig and either drop it overboard
or cast it out. On those classic days where walleye are biting at every
turn, I’ll drop the jig overboard. Where they need to be coaxed
a little, I like to cast the rig out and slowly drag it along bottom.
Don’t worry about the walleye having any troubles picking the
jig out of the sand. That’s what they do all their lives to catch
food, they’re good at it and they’ll have no troubles tipping
down and inhaling the jig and minnow.
The Drifting or Still Fishing Set Up – This is similar to the
jig and minnow presentation but is designed to suspend the bait off
bottom. This can be done with a slip bobber set to suspend the bait
just above the bottom ( 16" - 24" ). My prefernece is to use
a small sinker or split shots a foot or so above the hook, let the line
drop to bottom and then retrieve the 18" or so of line to position
the bait properly. A simple technique to master the depth is to grasp
the line a foot and a half from your reel and wind in that length. Note
whether it takes a turn or a turn and a half etc. to achieve this and
the procedure will be second nature every time you make your presentation.
Never use a wire leader, rig your live direct to the hook.
* Trolling and Drifting: Since the last couple feet before bottom is
by far the most productive walleye area it is important to maintain
our bait within this area. When we wish to troll and cover more water
we suggest the 3 way swivel with a spinning rig system.
a light line ( 6- 8 pound test ) to reduce friction and find the bottom
easier. You also need a 1-oz or 2-oz weight, a 3-way swivel and a lure
that does not sink. Tie
a 3-foot lead line from the 3-way swivel to a 1 - oz sinker. Then tie
in a 5 foot lead line to your lure. Get a straight slow troll going
and slowly let out the line until your sinker hits the bottom. A floating
or a countdown rapella works well. I have had good success over the
years with the 3 1/2" or 4 3/8 original gold colour.
Tips - Coming Soon